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Published on Friday, April 30, 2010
By LA Daily News Staff Writer
Good things cooking in this Kitchen
Although Rosti Tuscan Kitchen has been in Encino 16 years, it recently moved (due to losing its lease) to a new building across the street on the ground floor of an apartment complex. Both the menu and surroundings have been beefed up, and there is lots to like at this inviting neighborhood spot that exudes a friendly atmosphere. Nothing fancy, just casual and comfortable.
The expanded menu includes new appetizers, pizzas, salads, paninis and pastas. With the overwhelming number of tempting Italian-inspired selections, what to eat?
For starters, a pizza and appetizer salad sounded like good bets. A small pizza - the GCOP ($12) - with caramelized onions, goat cheese crumbles and crisp pancetta - about 12 inches in diameter - turned out to be enough for two or three to share with other items. The thin crust touted on the menu was not as paper thin as some we've sampled recently, but it was OK. However the overall flavor seemed slightly flat with scant toppings unevenly layered. More of the not overly sweet caramelized onions, goat cheese pieces and pancetta, which you could hardly decipher, would have been welcome.
The traditional caprese salad ($9.50), a wonderful, generous choice here, arrived with delicious tomato and fresh mozzarella slices overlapping, with a drizzling of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of salt and slivered fresh basil pieces. The excellent quality mozzarella was fresh, creamy and smooth - not the least bit rubbery or bitter.
It's feasible to order half or whole salad from an impressive line up of more than 15. The half shrimp and avocado salad ($9.50) sported shredded romaine, sliced avocado, chopped tomatoes and black olives along with six tasty medium grilled shrimp. Dressed just right, the homemade lemon herb vinaigrette played perfectly with the shellfish and other ingredients. Kalamata olives would have added more flavor (and salt) than the bland ripe olives. A mixture of the two would have helped bump up the flavor.
From the more than 20 overwhelming pasta choices, the perennial staple, penne puttanesca ($11.50), garnered our vote. The hefty portion came piping hot in a zippy (but not overly spicy) arrabbiata sauce (made with white wine) with plenty of capers and kalamata olive pieces. A good amount of sauce moistened the al dente penne making it a hit.
Entrees skew to mostly chicken and fish with a couple of beef and vegetable choices tossed in. The fresh grilled salmon, ordered Tuscan style ($18.50), (also available just lightly seasoned) came nestled beneath a delightful medley of artichokes, kalamata olives and checca sauce (tomatoes and chopped fresh basil). A choice of two sides - sauteed spinach with garlic and assorted steamed vegetables (zucchini, carrots, broccoli)- accompanied it. They were bright and crisp-tender, making for a colorful plate. The salmon was nicely grilled, tender and flavorful, too.
For desserts, the server stopped by with a large display platter of tempting sweet choices which come from La Mousse - chocolate flourless cake, Boston cream pie, creme brulee cheesecake, apple tart. We opted instead for housemade tiramisu ($6.75) which rivals the best of them with its divine flavor, moist consistency and the top covered with shaved chocolate. Tiramisu doesn't get much better than this version layered with espresso-drenched lady fingers and a not-too-sweet mascarpone cheese mixture. Presented with a drizzling of chocolate sauce on the plate, it was attractive, too.
At its best: Well prepared and executed Italian dishes utilizing fresh, good quality ingredients. The large menu features many familiar, satisfying options and should appeal to a wide variety of tastes. Comfortable, casual place
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